The only Napoli train I could see was a 9.00am so I thought OK, that's better than nothing, as I noted the Binario 19. As I walked down the platform I saw a rare information kiosk, showed my ticket, and yes, it was not valid for the 9 am, my 'regionale' didn't leave till 10.45, way down the track, or I could of course, take the nine o'clock and pay the difference! So again I was stymied but was happy to rush to find a rare seat, second class on the nine o'clock. It was packed. The inspector again was kind, charged me another 9.80 euros and gave me the return timetable, for 18.41. Sounded good, I wonder what will happen then, something surely.
A few hours later.....arrived in smart Stazione Centrale near the Piazza Garibaldi. Think possibly to find out about return trip but huge queue in the Trenitalia office makes me think again. I'll approach that challenge later. So I head out to the main square called Garibaldi, with his large statute looming over an incredibly busy Sunday traffic. I'm sure it is always like this. Suddenly I see an accident, an 'incidente', a man is knocked over by a passing scooter, or a scooter is knocked over by a passing man. This traffic makes Rome look normal. One of men then runs and launches a savage round of kicks to the one on the ground, who then gets up, jumps on the pillion of the scooter and the two whiz off into the crowd. A larger crowd has now gathered around another man, obviously injured, on the ground and soon the carabinieri arrive and there is the sound of an Ambulance. It is all very busy and people stand around, some being witnesses and some just staring. I decide to move on, feeling I need to see the sea and so I catch a passing tram which goes to the port.
It's only a minute or two away but I can see a little of the crazy city from the windows. I see an impressive cathedral Dome and go over and discover the end of a Mass in process, a Carmelite Monastery, and there is to be procession down the streets and the crowds are quite large, but most are just looking on. The apartments high above the square where many have hung their best bed sheets or table cloths to celebrate the day, the loudspeakers are working and the hymns are ones I already know from my Catholic past. It is indeed the Sunday in Napoli I had thought would be happening. I continue getting lost in the myriad of streets and markets, stopping for a tea with lemon to recover and buying a pair of fake 'Ray Ban' sunnies from a stall, for five euros, they asked ten.
I get too involved in the mercato San Antonio de Bruta, (my spelling) and decide to head back, feeling tired and hungry. On reaching Piazza Garibaldi I see the boy sitting on the footpath I had seen on arrival, I can't pass him this time, his feet are very twisted. I reach in and give him my small change and he gives me such a smile of gratitude I feel good and bad all over, me for being rich and he so poor. I have to forget it but these people in the streets of Rome and Naples do affect me. I suddenly see a caffe and find a seat to have some very greasy meat balls with melanzone (egg plant) and potatoes. it is a very interesting scene and is just on the main drag. There is pop music playing and the people are out of a Fellini movie.
I am happy to have had a taste of Napoli and I will now find the 'treno regionale' to take me back to Rome for my last day tomorrow. Arriving at the terminal I happily discover there is a train for Roma in five minutes, I am ready to take it.
This time I have the right ticket for the right train. I walk to the top to be near the Termini in Rome and find a near empty carriage. A few stops later I see a man climb in with huge baggage which I help him put in the luggage rack. He says Grazie. A minute later he leans over and shows me his ticket, I see it is not the Napoli Rome ticket but the reverse. He must be illiterate but I say OK to him and he seems happy. I'm sure we won't have an inspector this trip.
I am returning to Rome with probable indigestion and pair of faux Ray Ban sun glasses. Could be worse!
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