First, there are two sorts of trains in Rome, those for the tourists and those for the regular Italians. I had bought in the ticketing machine, quite easy I thought, a valid ticket for a month from day of validation ( in the machine on the binario, platform), but it was for an 'ordinario' train, not the Intercity, which by the way, left half an hour late. I wonder how late the ordinary train will leave tomorrow when I intend to go Naples, second class, with the ordinary Italians?
However I am taking the smart train, obviously much faster, today, and I pay the ticket puncher double the amount I paid, for the privilege.
Correction, the inspector just came and allowed me to stay on First Class for a second class supplement of eight euros, he also checked the time table for return, and then the timetable for tomorrow to Naples, as I now plan to forget the Porta Portese market tomorrow and got to Napoli and allow an easy day on Monday before I leave on Tuesday. He was remarkably kind and helpful
and I was suitable impressed.
The weather is beautiful and I look forward to a lovely day at Orvieto, in Tuscany, which I am told is also beautiful and all in its original state.
Have arrived in Orvieto and it doesn't disappoint. A funicular, for one euro, takes you up the steep hill to the village perched high on cliffs, and all is in the original, except, of course, for the tourists and their traders. I walk completely through the village in about twenty minutes, not pausing for the many caffes but just once to visit a church of the Tortured Virgin, a statue of whom poses resplendent in the nave of the church, her heart pierced with seven arrow. Such is the life of a virgin woman in Italy!
I reach the other side of the village and the wild wind nearly blows me away as I look down on the the beautiful Umbrian fields and villages. I am outside a tightly bolted two storey house, it looks cosy inside and I would be happy to look inside, but I must go before I am blown away.
Before long I see a church, I enter, and am greeted by a charming man who tells me in English this is one of three monuments to visit, five euros for the three. I buy a ticket, and look forward to see some of the Pope's treasures from Pope Urbano IV and Gregorio X.
This church San Agostino, houses some of sculptures brought from the Duomo which I will see later, after a lunch, hopefully not in a tourist caffe!
Taking advice not to eat in the piazzas, I found a little Trattoria La Palumbra, situated in a side street, reasonable prices and looks cosy. Excellent attention from mine host, with two assistants rushing around serving a full house. A bruschetta al pomodoro and spagetti alla napolitana later, I decide it is time to leave to view the Duomo and Galeria Papabile. Slightly overcharged for some things I didn't order, I paid and left, senza servicio, but feeling justified. I found later, that this restaurant was the one recommended by the tourist books and also by the man at the ticket office at the Duomo. They must be making a fortune, as my meal, which cost twenty euros, would have cost them less than two euros.
I find the Duomo, and it is very impressive with amazing Papal history going down through the ages. However the weather has turned really nasty, rain and chilly winds are blowing so I will escape to the warmth of the railway waiting room for my return train, 'ordinario'.
Am in waiting room sitting next to a man with tourette's syndrome. He is quiet but shaking a lot. I feel for him. Two aussie women come in, can tell by their sandals. One is doing a 'facili', numbers crossword. I am ready for a quiet early night, especially after last night's spectacular experience.
Btw, the ordinary train is also very good, couldn't find a first class carriage, so wasted that money, tomorrow I take a second class to Naples.
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